Braving the Alps, our man checks out the latest styles at the closest thing the corporate world has to a red-carpet event
By ALAN MURRAY
January 28, 2006; Page P1
DAVOS, Switzerland -- The annual gabfest thrown by the World Economic Forum in this tiny town in the Swiss Alps is about big ideas.
This year's theme: "The Creative Imperative." A "greater emphasis on human imagination, innovation and creativity," the program announces, "must be the key differentiators for business."
Maybe so. But you'd never guess by looking at what the global Type A-community is wearing.
When the Oscars roll around in March, the parade of Versace, Dior and Prada gowns will help set fashions for the year ahead. But for the boardroom crowd, this is as close as it gets to the red carpet and the forecast is staid.
The dress code at Davos, where high-voltage executives, politicians and other world leaders meet, is fairly clear (unlike many of the session topics.) Each of the more than 2,000 participants received a pamphlet from the organizers saying: "
The dress code for the Annual Meeting is sporty or business casual (no tie)." The emphasis is theirs. The goal is to maintain an informal atmosphere.
But the looks here show the incredible persistence of the
dark suit and tie in corporate orbits, despite the casual-businesswear push. Michael Dell, who as chairman of computer maker Dell seldom wears a tie at home, is dressed in full business regalia. So, too, are Chuck Prince, chief executive of Citigroup; John Thain, CEO of the New York Stock Exchange; and Larry Summers, president of Harvard University. Even Brad Pitt, with girlfriend Angelina Jolie, wore a tie -- albeit a skinny one.
The conference organizers are so intent on getting rid of neckwear that two years ago they made men who wore ties donate five Swiss francs ($4) to Unicef. The effort raised 10,000 Swiss francs, which the group then doubled. But it didn't stop the ties. "It never seems to work," says Mark Adams, the group's head of communications. Though they hail from all over the world, many participants look like executives on a flight to Chicago.
This year the tie collection is more low-key: There is an honor box for donations with a sign depicting a tie with a red slash through it -- the international symbol for "don't even think about it."
Don Peterson, chief executive of communications systems provider Avaya, tried to comply. When we met, he was wearing khaki pants and a sweater. But he confessed that he was carrying a tie, which he dons for television interviews and evening cocktail parties.
Jeff Clarke, chief operating officer of Computer Associates, met me for breakfast in a blue Armani power suit with a subtle stripe and a red, yellow and gray-striped Asprey tie. (As it happens, I'm colorblind, but that didn't seem to matter since the palette here is mostly navy blue and gray. Mr. Clarke described his outfit for me.) When I mentioned the dress code, he said he has a turtleneck and sweater that he changes into for conference sessions. Later, at a dance party thrown by consulting firm McKinsey, he was still wearing the tie -- though it eventually disappeared.
Some of the sartorial dissonance emanates from the top. Klaus Schwab, the sonorous professor who has assembled this august group since 1971, is often seen in a sharp-looking tie and double-breasted suit. "He takes his tie off," the forum's Mr. Adams insists, saying Mr. Schwab wore one only for the formal signing of a memorandum on the opening of a World Economic Forum office in Beijing. Actually, Mr. Schwab wore a red tie with a dark suit at the opening session Wednesday as well.
Many attendees follow suit (but no tie). Standard dress for men is a suit or sport coat and an open-collar dress shirt -- which makes them look as if they have just removed their tie. Few wear sweaters, which seems odd for a retreat at a ski resort. The power tie of choice seems to be a conservative stripe.
Women wear slacks with jackets or sometimes sweaters. But new German Chancellor Angela Merkel wore a conservative pantsuit and heels when she addressed the group. And the pregnant Ms. Jolie, representing the United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees, was spotted in a stylish skirt ensemble with a bolero jacket that showed off her belly.
Some took a different approach. Google billionaire Sergey Brin arrived in jeans and a gray sweater and later was spotted on the dance floor in a black T-shirt. Singer Bono wore a denim jacket and jeans, with his trademark dark glasses.
Footwear also can be challenging at Davos. One year I showed up in my usual work shoes, only to find five feet of snow on the ground. These days I know to wear my L.L. Bean duck shoes everywhere I go. Those who dare to wear Gucci loafers are likely to slip on the ice-covered sidewalks.
Women also wear rubber-soled boots, though some check them at the door and change into heels. A surprising number wear fur, which might have drawn flak if the Swiss hadn't kept antiglobalization protesters miles away.
The peak of sartorial expression comes Saturday night at a Gala Soirée, where the attire is "black tie" or "national dress." Some executives didn't bring a tuxedo, but they weren't sure what an acceptable alternative might be or what might qualify as "national dress" for an American. Cargo pants? A coonskin cap? Many planned to wear -- what else? --
a business suit and tie.
For women, the gala offers a chance to follow "the creative imperative," at least in attire. Three years ago, Raghida Dergham, who covers the U.N. for the Arab newspaper Al Hayat, danced with Time Warner Chief Executive Richard Parsons. Two years ago, she did the same with billionaire investor George Soros. Last year, it was actor Richard Gere. In each case, she credits the dress.
This year she brought three formal outfits -- one in chocolate-brown, one in black and one in green silk with a sash. She says she'll pick one Saturday, based on whom she most wants to dance with.
